A legging is judged in a squat, not on a hanger. The pattern is cut smaller than the body and the fabric stretches to fit, so whether the legging covers, holds and recovers cannot be read from a drawing. These points need to be settled before the sample: rise and length, waistband build, pocket, panel layout and seam position, the number of colourways and what the worn sample will be judged on.
What you can order
Four photographed builds mark out the range. A high-waist legging with a high flat waistband and a concealed zip pocket in the back of the waistband, full length. A ribbed high-waist legging with a fine rib texture, contrast overlock seams and a zipped back waistband pocket. A colour-block legging with a high flat waistband and a contrast ribbed side panel from thigh to calf. And a flared legging on a wide flat waistband, cut with no side seam.
From these builds the range extends to 7/8 and capri lengths set on the pattern, training tights for running and athletics, leggings for gym and training and yoga and pilates programmes, and the legging half of a crop top and leggings set. All of them are cut-and-sew garments. Cut-and-sew versus seamless activewear explains what that means for the panel layout and what it does not.
Fit and rise
All four photographed builds are high rise. A mid rise is a pattern change and is briefed as a separate style. A legging fits with negative ease: the pattern measures less than the body and the fabric stretches to it. How much less depends on the fabric, so pattern and fabric are decided together. In the brief, give the rise (crotch seam to top of waistband on the sample size), the leg length and whether the waistband sits at the natural waist or above it. Fit approval, measurements and grading explains how the graded sizes are confirmed once the sample fits.
Checking coverage on the sample
A fabric that is opaque lying flat on a table can show through when stretched over a body, and the lightest colourway shows it first. Coverage is checked on the worn sample: squat, lunge and sit in daylight, in the lightest colour of the range, looking hardest at the seat and the knee. If coverage falls short, look at the fabric structure, stretch, fit or lining rather than simply adding weight. Fabric weight, coverage and appearance explains why weight alone does not settle it.
Stretch and recovery
State the fibre requirements in the brief and how the legging should behave in use. The sample is checked for two things. Stretch: the waistband and the leg go on easily and move without restriction. Recovery: the knee and the waistband return to shape after a session instead of bagging or rolling. Wear the sample for a full session before approving it. Specifying stretch and recovery gives the wording to put both into the brief, so the quotation can match a fabric to them.
Seam placement
A side seam is the conventional build. The flared legging in the range has none, which changes the pattern and the panel layout. An inseam or back leg seam moves the point where stress sits when the wearer bends, and a crotch gusset spreads the stretch across the seam junction. Contrast overlock thread, as on the ribbed legging, runs the length of every seam and is the most visible specification choice on a plain body. A flatlock finish, where specified instead, gives a flatter join. Whether it is comfortable depends on the fabric, thread and placement, so it is judged on the worn sample. Where a printed panel meets a seam, the panels are printed after cutting and before sewing. Seams and garment construction goes through the stitch types.
Waistband
The range includes a high flat waistband, a wide flat waistband, a high waistband with a concealed zip pocket set into the back and a ribbed build with a zipped back pocket. For the waistband you decide the depth, whether elastic is enclosed in self fabric or the band relies on the fabric alone, whether a pocket is set in and whether a drawcord is wanted. A pocket adds a zip and a pocket bag to the bill of materials, so it belongs in the brief and is fixed on the sample.
Separate the body measurements from the garment measurements
A legging’s finished measurements can be smaller than the wearer’s body measurements because the fabric stretches, but how much smaller depends on the material and cannot be chosen on its own. Mark on the measurement chart whether each figure is a body, relaxed garment or stretched garment measurement. Send the intended wearer and a fit reference as well, so the sample is judged against the right numbers.
If the waistband fits but the leg restricts movement, enlarging every measurement can create a new problem at the waist. Note which movement is restricted and where, then review the pattern and fabric together. Record how the garment behaves after wear as well as at the first fitting.
Example: adding a waistband pocket
A brand may want to add a concealed pocket to an existing legging. Say what the pocket should hold, where it sits and how it opens, then check the waistband with the pocket loaded. The pocket can change seam bulk, stretch and the fit of the waistband, so it is more than an extra line on the artwork. The proposed construction and any closure have to be sampled.
What to send for development
Send the intended activity, a fit reference, colours, approximate quantities, sizes and the delivery date you need. Describe the rise, leg shape, pocket and coverage that matter to you, even if the fabric specification is not yet complete. Voyager Sportswear can help settle the fabric direction, pattern and branding.
Questions and answers
How do you check custom leggings for see-through in a squat?
Coverage on custom leggings is checked on the worn sample, not on a flat fabric swatch, because a fabric that is opaque on a table can show through when stretched over the body. The wearer squats, lunges and sits in daylight in the lightest colourway, and the seat and knee are checked most closely. If coverage fails, review the fabric structure, stretch, fit or lining, because adding weight alone does not guarantee a fix.
How is rise measured when briefing high-waisted leggings?
Rise on high-waisted leggings is measured from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband on the sample size. Send the rise with the leg length and say whether the waistband should sit at the natural waist or higher. A mid rise is a pattern change and is briefed as its own style. Label the chart as body, relaxed garment or stretched garment measurements.
What types of custom leggings does Voyager Sportswear make?
Voyager Sportswear makes custom leggings and training tights as cut-and-sew garments, starting from four photographed builds: a high-waist legging with a concealed zip pocket in the back of the waistband, a ribbed high-waist legging with contrast overlock seams, a colour-block legging with a contrast ribbed side panel, and a flared legging cut with no side seam. From those constructions the range extends to 7/8 and capri lengths, training tights for running and athletics, and leggings for gym, yoga and pilates programmes.
For an enquiry
Send the garment and design (or a reference), quantities by style and size, your fabric requirements, any numbers required, the destination and the date you need the goods. Voyager Sportswear usually sends a first reply within 24 hours. Request a quote
