Glossary

Sportswear manufacturing glossary

On this page
  1. Alphabetical index
  2. Useful distinctions
  3. Materials
  4. Construction
  5. Branding
  6. Development and sampling
  7. Quality and compliance
  8. Purchasing and logistics
  9. Using these terms in your brief

This sportswear manufacturing glossary explains the terms you meet in quotations, tech packs and sample reviews: what each one means, why it matters and what to confirm for your order. It covers materials, construction, branding, development, quality and purchasing.

Suppliers do not always use these terms in the same way, so use the definition to agree with your supplier what the product or the responsibility actually is. Voyager Sportswear can help develop an incomplete brief.

Alphabetical index

Useful distinctions

TermsWhat to distinguish
Body and garment measurementsBody measurements describe the wearer, garment measurements the item. Compare equivalent dimensions and allow for ease.
Lab dip and strike-offA lab dip is a dyeing trial, a strike-off a print trial. Confirm the material and what each approval covers.
Size set and size runA size set is samples in selected sizes, a size run a size range or allocation. State quantities in full.
Private label and OEMPrivate label concerns whose brand the garment carries, OEM who provides design and production input. One order can be both.
Cut-panel and roll sublimationIn cut-panel sublimation, cut pieces receive positioned artwork before sewing. In roll sublimation, the fabric is printed before it is cut.
Lead time and in-hand dateLead time is the time between agreed milestones. The in-hand date is the day the goods must arrive.
Tolerance and easeTolerance is the permitted variation from a specification. Ease is the difference between garment and body dimensions.
Certification and performance evidenceEvidence for a certification claim does not by itself prove how a fabric performs physically.

Materials

Polyester

A synthetic fibre widely used in sportswear and in conventional dye sublimation. Polyester fabrics range from open mesh to smooth stretch knits, so the fibre name alone says little about comfort or drying. Confirm the composition, structure and finish, and check that the fabric suits the intended printing or branding method.

Polyamide (nylon)

A family of synthetic fibres commonly called nylon, used in woven and knitted sportswear. How it feels and performs depends on the yarn, structure and finish. Compare the proposed fabric for movement, coverage and care, and agree a dyeing or branding method suited to polyamide instead of assuming that polyester sublimation will work.

Elastane

An elastic fibre also called spandex. LYCRA is a trademark, not the generic name. Elastane gives stretch and recovery, but the percentage alone does not tell you how the finished fabric behaves. For leggings, confirm extension and recovery in both directions and assess the finished garment after the agreed care.

Fabric weight (g/m²)

The mass of a fabric in grams per square metre, commonly abbreviated GSM. It helps identify and compare fabrics but on its own says nothing about thickness, opacity or durability. Confirm the chosen fabric reference, the agreed weight tolerance and how the garment looks in the intended colour and fit.

Single jersey

A single-knit structure whose face and back look different, commonly used for T-shirts and jerseys. Its drape and possible curl at the edges affect handling and appearance, and it is not necessarily the lightest fabric. Confirm the weight, stability after care, coverage and suitability for the design.

Interlock

A double-knit structure with two similar faces, often chosen for its smooth surface and body. Stretch, weight and coverage depend on the yarn and knitting conditions, so interlock is not automatically better than single jersey. Check the proposed swatch and the garment for the fit and print effect you need.

Piqué

A name for textured fabrics. Knitted piqué is familiar from polo shirts, but woven piqué also exists. The texture can change the hand feel and the look of fine graphics. Specify knitted or woven where it matters, and confirm the construction, the weight and a printed or branded sample.

Mesh

A knitted or woven fabric with an open structure. The openings can help airflow but also affect coverage, snagging and printed detail. For jersey side panels, confirm the hole pattern, the stretch, how the colour relates to the body fabric and whether the panel gives enough coverage when worn.

Warp knit

A knit in which the yarns run mainly along the length of the fabric. Tricot and raschel are examples. Warp knits range from open meshes to more closed fabrics, each with its own stability and stretch. Confirm the construction and test the movement and coverage the garment needs.

French terry

A knitted fabric with loops on the back and a relatively smooth face. It is used for layers such as sweatshirts, and its warmth and bulk depend on composition, structure and weight. Confirm the loopback finish, hand feel, dimensional change and appearance after the agreed care.

Fleece

In apparel, a fabric with a raised or pile surface, often made by brushing a knit. It can add softness and insulation, but the term covers different constructions. For a warm-up layer, confirm which face is raised, the weight and bulk, what shedding or pilling is acceptable, and the care.

Woven fabric

Fabric made by interlacing warp and weft yarns. It can give a shell or a more structured look, and it can also stretch, depending on the yarn, weave or finishing. For shorts or jackets, confirm movement, whether a lining is needed and whether the fabric suits the branding method.

Knit fabric

Fabric made from interlooped yarns rather than interlaced warp and weft. The structure can give flexibility, but knits differ widely in drape, stability and extension. Confirm the structure and the finished properties. “Knit” on its own is not a stretch or comfort rating.

Stretch and recovery

Stretch is the extension of a fabric under stated conditions. Recovery is how far it returns once the force is removed. Together they affect movement and whether a garment bags out during wear. Confirm the direction, the load or extension and the hold and rest conditions, and assess the seams and waistband as well as the fabric.

Four-way stretch

A common trade description for fabric that stretches both lengthwise and widthwise. The term does not say how far the fabric stretches or how well it recovers, and suppliers use it differently. State both directions and agree how the fabric must behave for the way the garment moves.

Moisture wicking

The movement of liquid through or along a textile, for example by capillary action. Wicking can help spread moisture, but on its own it does not determine drying speed or comfort. Confirm which property was measured, by which method and on which material, and whether the result still applies after the intended care.

Quick drying

A description of drying speed under specified conditions. The result depends on the material, the amount of water and the environment, so a quick-drying claim needs context. Ask for the method, the result and any comparison fabric, and whether the fabric was tested before or after washing.

Breathability

A broad term used for either air permeability or water-vapour transmission, which are different properties. An open mesh and a layered shell may need different tests. Ask which meaning is intended and for the test method and conditions. One result is not a comfort guarantee for every use.

UV protection claim

A statement about protection from ultraviolet radiation, often given as a UPF rating based on a defined test. Fabric colour, construction and condition, and how much of the body the garment covers, all affect what the rating means. Before a rating is applied to the product, confirm the applicable test and labelling requirements, the material tested and the conditions of use.

Recycled polyester

Polyester made from recycled feedstock, which can come from different recovered sources. Recycled content is a claim about where the material comes from. It does not prove every environmental benefit or equivalent fabric performance. Confirm the evidence for content and traceability, any rules for certification claims and whether the finished fabric is suitable.

Dope-dyed yarn

Yarn coloured in the polymer before the fibre is formed, in some contexts also called solution-dyed. This differs from dyeing a fibre or fabric that has already been formed and can affect how colours are sourced. Confirm the material, the available shades, any quantity constraints and the evidence for any performance claim.

Pilling

Small balls of tangled fibre that form on a fabric surface, often through rubbing. Pilling can affect the look of leggings, tops or layers even when a new swatch shows none. Agree the assessment method and the acceptable appearance for how the garment is used and cared for.

Colourfastness

Resistance to colour change or staining under a specified exposure, such as washing, rubbing, perspiration or light. Results for one exposure do not prove resistance to another. Confirm the method, material, conditions and required rating. Grading scales differ between tests.

Shrinkage

The reduction in fabric or garment dimensions after a stated treatment. Shrinkage can change the fit, and some materials grow or distort instead. Record the measurements before and after in length and width, the washing and drying conditions and the acceptable change, rather than relying on the word “pre-shrunk”.

Fabric hand

How a fabric feels in the hand: softness, smoothness, stiffness and surface texture. Descriptions are subjective and people read them differently. Send a clearly identified reference, say which aspects matter and then assess the proposed fabric, including any change after printing or care.

Lab dip

A small dyeing trial used to assess a target shade on a given material. It helps settle the colour before bulk dyeing, but it does not approve garment fit or cover all variation in production. Confirm the substrate, the reference, the viewing conditions and the chosen version. When a stock colour is selected, a different route may apply.

Strike-off

A trial print used to assess artwork on the intended material. It helps check colour, detail and scale, but may not show placement on a sewn garment. Confirm the fabric and process, what the trial covers and which reference is approved for production.

Bill of materials (BOM)

A structured list of the materials and components that go into a product. It links fabrics, trims and packaging to approved references, so that a substitute is not mistaken for the specified item. Confirm each item, its colour and, where relevant, quantity or consumption, and who sources each component.

Trims

Components used with the main fabric, such as zips, elastic, cords, tapes, thread and labels. What counts as a trim can vary from one offer to another. List the items, dimensions, colours and suppliers or approved references, above all where a trim affects fit, care or safety.

Greige

Fabric as it comes off the knitting or weaving machine, before wet processing and finishing. Greige fabric is not always undyed, since coloured yarns may already be present. Confirm how far it has been processed and the finished specification before judging colour, dimensions or hand feel.

Construction

Cut-and-sew

Making garments by cutting fabric into pattern pieces and sewing them together. The method leaves room for choices of panels, materials and construction, and each choice still has to be developed and approved. Confirm the pattern, fabric, seam details and the sequence of branding steps for the garment. Voyager Sportswear does cutting and sewing in house.

Pattern

The shapes and instructions used to make garment components, including grain lines, notches and allowances. A pattern change affects fit and can also alter panel artwork. Before the pattern is used for bulk or reorders, confirm the approved version, the size range and who owns it or may reuse it.

Marker

The layout of pattern pieces across the usable fabric width for cutting. The marker affects fabric consumption, but it also has to respect direction, nap, matching and other constraints. Confirm any critical panel orientation or print matching, so that saving fabric does not change the approved garment.

Grading

Adjusting a base pattern to create the other sizes. Grading follows defined rules and changes proportions, rather than enlarging every dimension by the same amount. Agree the graded measurement chart and which sizes will be sampled, especially for a new fit or a wide youth and adult range.

Size set

Samples in selected sizes, used to check grading and fit across the size range. A size set tells you about those samples only and does not guarantee that every size issue will be found. Confirm which sizes and materials are included and how measurements and worn fit will be reviewed.

Seam allowance

The fabric left beyond the seam line to make the join. Its width and finish affect assembly and any artwork near panel edges. Confirm the allowance in the pattern and keep important lettering clear of the agreed seam area. Graphics that cross a seam are assessed on a sewn sample.

Flatlock seam

A trade term for a low-profile flat seam that joins fabric edges with visible thread covering the join. Constructions differ, and a flat seam is not automatically free of bulk or chafing. Confirm the intended seam with a sample or stitch reference and check comfort in the movements the sport involves.

Overlock seam

A join or edge finish made with overedge stitches that wrap the fabric edge, which is often trimmed as it is sewn. Overlocking is common on knits, and different stitch configurations serve different purposes. Confirm whether it joins or finishes, the seam allowance, and the extension and strength the garment needs.

Coverstitch

A family of covering stitches used for knit hems, attaching trims and other operations. Depending on the configuration, the threads can stretch with the fabric and cover raw edges. Give the intended appearance or a reference, and check hem width, skipped stitches and movement on the sample.

Bartack

A short, dense block of stitching that reinforces a stress point. It may strengthen a pocket opening or fastening, but the right reinforcement depends on the material and the load. Confirm position and construction, and check that the bartack does not damage the fabric or stiffen it more than necessary.

Bound seam

A seam whose raw edge or edges are enclosed in binding. It can give a clean finish and affect comfort or bulk. Confirm which edges are enclosed and the binding material and width, and check the inside of the sample where the seam touches the skin.

Bonded seam

A join made by adhesive bonding, sometimes combined with stitching. Bonding is not the same as welding, and it does not guarantee a completely ridge-free seam. Confirm material compatibility, construction, availability and durability under the intended care.

Raglan sleeve

A sleeve that extends towards the neckline, usually joined by diagonal seams running from the underarm. It changes the panel shapes and the way artwork crosses the shoulder. Confirm the seam lines and the fit in movement, since raglans differ in cut and some have further sleeve seams.

Set-in sleeve

A sleeve sewn into a defined armhole in the body. Its shape and position relative to the shoulder affect fit and movement. Confirm the armhole, sleeve and shoulder measurements together, and where the sport calls for it, check reach or layering on the sample.

Gusset

An inserted panel that adds shape or room or changes the seam layout, often at the crotch or underarm. It can affect movement and comfort but does not by itself solve a fit problem. Confirm its shape, material and joining seams on a worn sample.

Waistband

The band at the top of a lower-body garment that holds it in place and shapes it at the waist. Elastic, self-fabric, lining and cords can behave differently from the main fabric. Confirm the finished height, the relaxed and extended measurements, and comfort, rolling and recovery in wear.

Drawcord

A cord or tape run through a channel to adjust an opening such as a waistband or hood. Where it exits, its length and how its ends are finished affect function and can bring safety requirements, particularly on children’s garments. Confirm the applicable design requirements, material and attachment before sampling.

Inseam

The inside-leg seam, or the measurement along it from the crotch to the leg opening. It is used to describe the length of shorts, leggings and trousers. Confirm where the measurement starts and ends, the size, and whether the stated length includes finishing. A length quoted in marketing may refer only to the base size.

Rise

The distance from the crotch to the waist at the front or back of a lower-body garment. Rise affects coverage and fit. Define how it is measured and whether the waistband is included, then check the intended high-, mid- or low-rise position on the body.

Neck tape

Tape or a fabric strip on the inside of the neck, often used to cover or stabilise the seam. It changes the finish and can affect comfort, and its purpose depends on the construction. On the sample, confirm the material, width, position and how it behaves after washing.

Binding

A strip of material folded around an edge to finish it, which can also form a visible border at necklines, armholes or other openings. Confirm the finished width, colour, stretch and application tension, so that the edge lies as intended without restricting movement or waving.

Fusing and interlining

Interlining is an extra layer that supports or shapes part of a garment. Fusing bonds a suitable interlining in place with adhesive and heat. Both can change the handle and stability of collars or plackets. Confirm that the materials are compatible and check appearance and adhesion after the intended care.

Seamless knitting

Knitting a garment or shaped blank close to its final form, which removes part of the cutting and joining that would follow. The design and the machinery decide which seams and finishing steps remain, and the name alone guarantees neither comfort nor compression. Confirm the construction and how the sizes are developed.

Garment measurements

Dimensions taken on the garment at defined points and under defined conditions, often laid flat. They serve as references for production and inspection and are not the same as body measurements. State the method, size, relaxed or extended condition and tolerance, and compare like with like when relating them to a body chart.

Body measurements

Measurements of the intended wearer, such as chest, waist, hip and height. They help define who the garment is for and which sizes to offer, but they are not automatically the finished garment dimensions. Confirm how they were measured and what ease or stretch was assumed in developing the garment.

Tolerance

The agreed permitted difference from a specified value or reference. A tolerance helps make acceptance consistent, and it need not be a symmetric plus-or-minus figure. Name the property, the method and the allowed range or difference. Measurements, colour and print placement each need their own criteria.

Fit block

A base pattern used as the starting point for related styles with a defined fit. It helps keep fit consistent, but a different material or construction may call for adjustments. Confirm the intended wearer, the size, the approved version and what development the new style still needs.

Ease

The difference between a garment dimension and the matching body dimension. Positive ease adds room. Negative ease gives a closer fit and depends on the fabric stretching enough. Make sure both measurements are taken on the same basis and assess movement and comfort, because an ease value copied without its fabric and pattern can change the fit.

Branding

Sublimation

A process in which heat transfers dye from printed paper into a suitable polyester fabric. The colour becomes part of the fabric without an adhesive film, but the fabric and the process still affect appearance and durability. Confirm the fabric, the colour reference and the sample. Standard sublimation cannot print an opaque white logo on dark fabric.

Cut-panel sublimation

The usual route for a custom jersey at Voyager Sportswear: polyester fabric is cut into panels, the artwork is printed on transfer paper, heat transfers it to the panels and the panels are then sewn. The route suits positioned designs and numbering. Before printing, confirm the panel artwork, sizes, seam clearances and the approved size breakdown.

Roll-to-roll sublimation

Printed designs are transferred continuously onto fabric still on the roll, and the panels are cut afterwards where this route is chosen. It can suit repeating patterns, but it does not place a sponsor logo or number on each garment by itself. Agree the pattern repeat, the cutting layout and any artwork that has to be positioned separately.

Calendering

In textile finishing, calendering means passing fabric through rollers to change its surface or other properties. When sublimation printers talk about a calender, they mean a rotary heat-transfer machine. The two are different operations, so ask whether a quotation refers to fabric finishing or to continuous print transfer, and which material and result are intended.

Heat press application

Heat and pressure transfer or bond a compatible decoration onto the fabric. The result depends on the applied material, the fabric and the press conditions. Agree the combination and placement, then check adhesion, colour change, surface marks and behaviour in movement on a sample.

DTF printing

In direct-to-film printing, the design is printed on film with a compatible adhesive and then transferred to the fabric with heat. The result is a layer on top of the fabric, and its feel and stretch matter on sportswear. Check fabric compatibility, final size, the risk of dye migration and how the print looks after the intended care routine.

Screen printing

Ink is pushed through a prepared screen onto the fabric or other material. Artwork can be printed in spot colours, or with halftones and process separations. Setup and results depend on the design, the ink and the material. Ask whether the method suits your garment and is available for the order, then check how the print stretches and how it holds up to the care instructions.

Embroidery

A design stitched from a prepared embroidery file. It gives a textured thread finish but can add weight or stiffness, especially on light knits. Agree dimensions, thread colours, backing and placement, and check legibility, puckering and comfort against the skin on a stitched sample.

Appliqué

Shaped pieces of material are stitched or bonded to a garment, or attached with an agreed combination of both, to form a logo, number or design. Appliqué adds another material and another edge to finish. Ask whether it is available for the order, and agree weight, attachment method, comfort and care.

Heat transfer

A broad term for applying a design with heat. It covers sublimation paper as well as different applied transfer materials. On its own, the term does not say what the finished surface or adhesive will be, so name the process and material and check that they suit the fabric, the movement of the garment and the care routine.

All-over print (AOP)

Artwork that covers a large part or all of a garment's surface instead of one small area. The term describes coverage and does not prescribe a printing sequence. Say whether the design is placed panel by panel or repeats across the fabric, and check joins, scale and clear areas on the sample.

Placement print

A graphic placed at one defined position on the garment, such as a chest logo or a back number. A visual mock-up is not enough to fix that position: production needs a reference that can be repeated on every piece. Give dimensions, distance from named seams or centre lines, any changes between size groups and the approved application method.

Artwork file

The digital file a graphic is produced from, together with instructions for size, colour, placement and version. Without those instructions, the same file can be read in different ways. Send the best original you have and say what is final, what still needs preparation and which garment variants use it.

Vector artwork

Graphics built from paths instead of a fixed grid of pixels, which makes them suitable for logos and lettering that must scale. A PDF or AI file can still contain raster images, so check what the file really contains, the fonts and the final dimensions. Outlining or converting a file does not restore image detail that is missing.

Bleed and safe area

Bleed extends the background artwork past a production boundary, and the safe area keeps important content far enough inside the usable area. Together they absorb small variations in cutting, joining and placement. Work from the template and allowances for the garment, and keep sponsor text clear of the agreed seam or edge zones.

Pantone reference

A colour reference from a named Pantone system, given with its full code and suffix. It sets a target, but it does not guarantee that the colour looks identical on every fabric or with every process. Agree the physical reference, the material, the viewing conditions and the sample used for production approval.

Colour matching

Comparing a material or decoration with an agreed colour reference and adjusting it towards that reference. A match can look different on another surface or under another light source. Before the production reference is approved, agree which components must match and which only need to coordinate, how they are assessed and what difference is acceptable.

Jersey numbers

The numbers that differ from one team garment to the next, applied on request as part of the printed artwork or by another suitable method. One wrong or repeated number can make an otherwise correct garment unusable. Check the number format, size and quantity against a single approved number list and artwork version.

The area reserved for a sponsor's logo. It can be a zone in the artwork rather than a separate sewn panel. Its size and position may depend on brand requirements and competition rules. Agree the approved logo, the garment variants and the rules currently in force, including the layout on youth sizes.

Woven label

A label with the design woven into it in yarn, often used for branding or size information. Its material, edge finish and level of detail affect how it looks and feels. Agree dimensions, colours, fold and attachment, then check legibility and comfort against the skin on the sewn garment.

Printed neck label

Information printed inside the neck, instead of or alongside a sewn label. It can do away with a tag that sticks out, but it still has to be legible and fit for its purpose. Agree the required content, position, fabric compatibility and durability, and check the labelling rules of the destination market.

Hangtag

A removable tag attached to a garment, usually carrying brand or retail information. It helps with presentation and identification, but it does not by itself replace any permanent labelling that is required. Before production, agree the artwork, card stock, attachment, barcode data and any price or product claims printed on it.

Care label

A label with instructions for looking after the garment, sometimes combined with fibre composition or other information. Depending on the requirements, it can be sewn in or printed. Agree content, permanence, legibility and position for the destination market, and make sure the instructions suit the whole garment, including decoration and trims.

Development and sampling

Tech pack

The working specification that brings together design, measurements, materials, construction, artwork and any label or packing details. Production and sample review work from it as a shared reference. Keep track of revisions and open decisions. A complete tech pack helps when you have one, but Voyager Sportswear does not need it for a first enquiry.

Proto sample

An early development sample for trying out construction, proportions or design. It may be made in provisional materials, so its look or fit may differ from the final product. Agree beforehand what it should answer, and before moving on, record which features are still unapproved.

Fit sample

A sample for checking measurements, proportions and movement on the intended wearer. If it is made in provisional fabric, the conclusions are limited, because the fabric affects fit. Agree the purpose, size, material and measuring method, then record corrections against the current size chart.

Pre-production (PP) sample

The sample that brings the agreed production specification together in one garment before the bulk production it covers is released. It does not prove every production condition or the quality of every piece. Note its materials, construction, decoration and any differences from the specification, then record the approval and how remaining corrections will be checked.

Shipment sample

A sample taken from the goods ready for dispatch and kept or sent as a record. It can help identify what was produced, but a single piece does not show the condition of the whole order. Agree how it is selected, how it is identified, when it is taken and how it relates to the inspection record.

Salesman sample

A sample made to present a range and help sell it, also called a sales sample. It may have provisional details or be made differently from bulk production. Check its specification and limits before you use it as a production reference or make promises to retail customers based on it.

Sample approval

A clear decision to accept named aspects of an identified sample for a defined next stage. It should not be read as approval of features that were provisional or never assessed. Record document versions, the approver, the date and the corrections, and state whether a conditional approval allows production to go ahead.

Revision round

One cycle of review and changes to a design, document or sample. A round does not always mean a full resample: it can be a new garment, a revised proof or another form of evidence. Agree what work is included, the fees, one consolidated set of comments and the approval needed before the next stage.

Fit model

A person chosen so that fit is always assessed on the same body. Their measurements and movement help to read the sample, but one person cannot stand for everyone across the size range. Check that the fit model matches the target wearer and decide which other sizes or wearers need a review.

Size chart

A table of the measurements for each size. It may show body measurements or garment measurements, and clear labelling stops buyers choosing a size from the wrong set of figures. Before you share the chart with players or customers, check what is measured, the method, the intended fit and the version.

Size run

A range of sizes, or sometimes the quantities allocated across them. Because the term can mean either, it can cause confusion in orders and in discussions about samples. Write out the size labels and quantities, and keep the production allocation separate from a size set of samples.

Size breakdown

The order quantities set out by style and size, with a total for each style and, where numbers are applied, the numbers for each size. It links the approved design to cutting and packing. Work from one approved version, mark spare pieces clearly and give totals by garment and size.

SKU

Stock-keeping unit: the code for one sellable variant in stock, such as a combination of style, colour and size. A company's SKU is not automatically the same as its GS1 barcode identifier. Check the variant mapping, any set components and that order, labels and packing data use the same codes.

Colourway

One colour combination of a style, such as the home and away versions of a design. A colourway can change materials, artwork or logo colours even when the pattern stays the same. List each version with its quantities and sample needs, and check how it affects the scope of the quotation.

Style number

The reference that links a garment style across records. Buyer and supplier may use different numbers, and a number that is not matched to the other side's reference can cause confusion on a reorder. Where needed, record both numbers, and keep colour, size and revision clearly separated in the tech pack and the order.

Spec sheet

A specification sheet setting out selected product requirements, often measurements but sometimes wider technical details. What it covers varies from one company to another. Check what it contains, its units and revision, and which artwork, material or construction documents are needed alongside it for a complete production reference.

Design freeze

An agreed point after which any design change has to be reviewed before it is made. It helps keep production from working with conflicting instructions, but it does not rule out every late change. Say which files or features are frozen, and for any later revision check feasibility, cost, timing and the new approval it needs.

Quality and compliance

Quality inspection

Checking materials or goods against defined requirements, within an agreed scope. An inspection can cover appearance, measurements, workmanship and packing, but laboratory tests are not automatically part of it. Agree the references, whether pieces are sampled or all checked, the report and what happens when a problem is found.

Inline inspection

Checks carried out while production is running. They can catch a recurring fault before more goods are affected, but how much they achieve depends on what is checked and when. The term does not describe a fixed programme, so agree the stages, criteria, records and who is responsible for corrections.

Final inspection

Inspection of finished goods, at an agreed stage of readiness, before they are released or dispatched. Depending on the scope, packing may be complete or partly complete. Agree how the lot is defined, how samples are drawn, what is checked and how results are reported. A sample that passes does not guarantee that every garment is free of defects.

AQL

Acceptance quality limit: a parameter in an acceptance-sampling scheme, used together with the scheme's other rules. It helps decide whether a lot is accepted and is not a guaranteed defect rate in the delivered goods. Agree the standard and its version, the lot, the inspection level, the defect classes and the acceptance and rejection plan with the inspector.

Defect classification

Sorting faults by how serious they are, often as critical, major or minor. The classification drives inspection decisions, but the same cosmetic or identification error can matter more on one product than on another. Agree examples and counting rules. An allowance for defects does not waive safety or legal requirements.

Measurement tolerance

The permitted deviation agreed for a measurement point on the garment. A tolerance only means something at inspection if both sides measure with the same method and under the same conditions. Set tolerances that suit the material and the feature, record them on the chart and agree what happens to measurements outside the range.

Wash test

A fabric or garment is washed under specified conditions and then assessed. A wash test can show changes in dimensions, colour, surface or decoration, but on its own it does not simulate a garment's whole life in use. Agree the procedure, drying, number of cycles, which sample is tested and the criteria, and keep an informal trial wash separate from a standard test.

Care instructions

Instructions for washing and looking after the whole garment, written out or given in an appropriate care symbol system. Fabric, trims and decoration may not tolerate the same treatment. Base the instructions on sound evidence and on the destination market's rules for content, format and permanence, instead of copying the label of another style.

Fibre content labelling

Stating a textile product's fibre composition as the rules of the destination market require. Fibre names, the treatment of separate components and the presentation can vary, so the label has to be backed by the material list. Before printing, check the composition, the required languages and who verifies the approved content.

Country of origin labelling

A statement of the product's origin, often in the form “Made in”. Origin is decided under the applicable rules, not simply by the dispatch address or by what the label says. Check whether the destination requires the marking, which country is correct and how it must be shown. An A.TR is not proof of origin.

Test report

A record of tests on an identified sample, with method, conditions and results. It supports only the properties and scope that were tested, not every claim made about a product. Check that it applies to the proposed material or order, and look at the laboratory, date, units and any acceptance criteria.

Third-party inspection

An inspection by an independent service provider, appointed on an agreed scope. It can take place during production or on finished goods, and it does not replace all of the supplier's own controls. Agree who appoints and pays, access, timing, references and how the findings affect release of the goods.

Certification scope

What a certification covers: an organisation, a site, a process, a product or a system, for example. A genuine certificate can still have nothing to do with the garment you are ordering. Check the standard, the holder, the activities covered, the status and dates, and any product or transaction evidence the claim requires.

Chain of custody

A documented system that traces material through specified stages of the supply chain. It can support a claim about certified content when the scheme's requirements are met. Check the organisations involved, the records and the transaction evidence. A single certificate further up the chain does not automatically back every statement made about the finished product.

Purchasing and logistics

MOQ (minimum order quantity)

Minimum order quantity: the smallest run a supplier accepts for a defined scope. It can be counted by style, material, colour, artwork or on another basis, and that affects how you plan a range. Ask each supplier how it counts the minimum and what the quantity is for your brief. At Voyager Sportswear, the minimum order is 100 pieces per style.

Lead time

The time between a defined start and a defined end. It can refer to development, production or delivery, so the term alone does not tell you when goods will arrive. Ask for the milestones, whether days are calendar or working days, the dependencies and whether transit or review time is included.

Sampling lead time

The time quoted for an agreed sample stage. Material availability, development work and revisions can change it, and suppliers may count from different start and end points. Rather than assume a fixed number of days, check the inputs needed, the expected dispatch date, the work included and any separate time for review or transport.

Production lead time

The time allowed for the agreed manufacturing work. It should state clearly what has to be in place before it starts and whether finishing or packing are included. Check the approvals, materials, quantities and commercial conditions it depends on, and keep the date goods are ready separate from the date they arrive at the destination.

RFQ (request for quotation)

Request for quotation: an enquiry asking a supplier to price and describe the proposed work. It helps link what the product needs to the commercial scope, even when some details are still open. Include the garment, an approximate quantity, the design you have, the destination and the date, and point out the decisions where you need development support.

Quotation scope

The work, goods and services an offer covers, with its assumptions and exclusions. The scope decides whether two prices are for comparable products. Check materials, development, decoration, labels, packing, tests and delivery, along with the specification revision the price is based on and how long the price is valid.

Unit price basis

The product and commercial assumptions behind a price per unit. Quantity, variants, materials, decoration and the definition of a unit all matter. Check whether the price is per garment, per set or per pack, and which separate charges or delivery costs come on top.

Landed cost

The cost of getting the specified goods to a named receiving point, built from the manufacturing, transport, import and handling lines that apply. It helps you compare offers with different delivery scopes. Count each charge only once, and agree how recoverable tax is treated and which currency the comparison uses.

Incoterms

ICC rules that divide specified delivery obligations, costs and risk between seller and buyer in a sale of goods. They do not define the garment's quality, the payment terms or the transfer of ownership. State the agreed rule, the named place and the edition, and check who handles transport, insurance and customs.

OEM

Original equipment manufacturer. In apparel, the term usually means production to the buyer's design or specification. Usage varies, and the term alone does not settle branding, material sourcing or ownership. Describe what you can supply and what development is needed, then set out responsibilities and approvals in the order.

ODM

Original design manufacturer. The term is used where the supplier contributes to the product design or creates it. It can involve developing or adapting a style, not only relabelling an existing one. Do not assume it is faster or exclusive: agree what work is included, design rights, permitted reuse and sample approvals.

Private label

Goods made by one business and sold under another business's brand. The product may be developed from scratch or adapted from an existing design, and the label alone does not make it exclusive. Agree who is responsible for design, sourcing, brand artwork, required product information and packing.

Full package

A commercial arrangement that usually covers material sourcing and garment manufacture. The exact scope varies, and the term does not mean every operation is carried out in house. List the development, material, manufacturing, testing, packing and delivery tasks included, and name anything the buyer has to supply.

CMT (cut, make, trim)

Cut, make and trim: an arrangement in which the buyer usually supplies materials and components and the factory carries out the making. How patterns, trims and finishing are handled varies. Agree each item supplied, the quantity and condition required, the arrival date and who is responsible for shortages or unsuitable inputs.

White label

Usually an existing product that several businesses sell under their own brands. It can make a range harder to set apart, but the commercial terms decide what may be changed and whether any exclusivity applies. The term settles none of this, so agree the product, customisation, labels and rights.

Subcontracting

Another organisation carries out part of the contracted work. This can bring in specialist capability, but materials or instructions then have to be passed on. Agree the operation, site, quality controls, confidentiality and any approval needed, and state in the agreement who is responsible for the completed order.

Capacity

The amount of work a manufacturer can handle in a given period under specified conditions. It varies with the complexity of the garment, the resources available and existing commitments. Ask about availability for your product and date. Headcount and machine numbers do not reserve a production slot.

Reorder

A new order for a style that has been supplied before. It can reuse approved work, but materials, artwork, quantities and commercial conditions may have changed. Give the previous reference and list every revision, and before release check the current minimum, price, sampling needs and schedule.

Carton packing

Packing goods into shipping cartons according to an agreed allocation. How cartons are packed affects counting, protection and receiving, especially with sets or several destinations. Do not assume that each carton holds one size: agree the contents, rules for mixed sizes, carton identifiers, dimension and weight limits and the packing list.

Poly bag

A plastic bag for one garment, a set or another agreed unit. It can protect and identify the contents, but it is not a packing specification in itself. Agree the material, closure, what goes into each bag, labels and any packaging or warning requirements of the destination market.

Barcode (EAN)

A machine-readable symbol from the EAN/UPC family that encodes an identifier such as a GTIN. The symbol and the product data are separate things, so a barcode can scan correctly and still point to the wrong garment. Check the authorised data, the variant mapping, the print requirements and any verification required.

Packing list

A document listing the goods and packing units in a shipment. It helps the receiver check quantities and find items, but it has to match the actual allocation. Check carton identifiers, contents, totals and, where needed, weights or dimensions, and make sure they agree with the labels and commercial documents.

In-hand date

The date by which goods must physically arrive at the receiving point. It is not the date the factory has them ready, and it may need to come before an event to leave time for sorting or distribution. Give the address and purpose, allow time for receiving, and confirm the transport assumptions in the schedule.

Backward schedule

A plan that works back from the date goods must arrive or be used, through each task and dependency. It shows when development, approvals and production have to move forward. Build it from confirmed durations rather than standard lead times, show the time allowed for review and transport, and keep the contingency visible.

Using these terms in your brief

When a supplier or client uses a different word, say what you mean and add a sketch, reference or measurement where it helps. “Jersey”, for example, can mean a garment or a fabric, and “vest” describes different products in different markets. A picture and a specification clear up that kind of ambiguity.

The buyer resources have practical worksheets and more detailed guides. To discuss a product, send your idea or reference with an approximate quantity, any artwork you have, the destination and the date, and mark the details you would like help deciding.

Request a quote